13 August 2002

The next morning we packed up and prepared to set out across the Nullarbor.  On the way out of Kalgoorlie we visited an op shop to satisfy Susie’s predilection, and after that we stopped at the Pioneer Cemetery.  The latter was a bit of a disappointment because the majority of the graves had been vandalised beyond recognition.

Before long we were on the highway heading east.  We stopped at Norseman for lunch. We filled up with petrol, topped up the water, and purchased some pies which we ate without much ado in the park behind the visitor’s centre.

We had a close call just 35km west of Newman Rock.  While Susie was driving, an emu strolled onto the road in front of the car. Susie grabbed my arm and gasped in horror but happily the bird got off the road in a hurry.  We saw a number of emus after that, wandering by the side of the road.  Susie pulled over and had a bit of a cry.  The close call brought back vivid memories of our misadventure at Shark Bay.

Our next stop was a bush camp at Newman Rock, 50 km west of Balladonia roadhouse. The rest point was secluded, but we followed a trail off the back of it to an even more secluded spot with a lovely view.  We set up camp, made a fire with some native hardwood I managed to wrestle off a large fallen branch, and we ate marinated T-bone steak with campfire roasted potatoes and green beans, under the stars, next to a roaring campfire in total seclusion.  It was heaven.

We ended the night with a sing-along, after which Susie and I stayed up and planned the next leg of our trans-Nullarbor adventure.