We are staying in a cosy ryokan in Tokyo and we are learning quickly about tatami mats, the rhythm of moving between slippers, shoes and socks as we walk across different surfaces, the protocol for bathing in the onsen and surprise fillings (today umboshi plums) in little rice packages. There is a room here where 2 people can soap up and rinse, apparently while sitting on tiny stools, before slipping into the hot tub and admiring the modest garden.

Today had an architecture focus and after changing some money at the local post office we headed to our local subway station, Nezu, and onto a stretch of Omotesando where we explored a neighbourhood of beautifully tiled buildings and swathes of high-end shops sprinkled with loud modern statement buildings. There were good people watching opportunities, notably some of the young fashionistas, dressed in outfits that owe a lot to both punks and princesses.

The many buildings we paused to ponder include tiled apartment blocks, the Audi Forum with its strange angles, the Tokyu Plaza with its mirrored entrance and the Prada Building which has both an alluring texture and some space around it which seemed rare.

We returned to our local neighbourhood for lunch in a small friendly restaurant before heading home for a nap and then tea and silky cheesecake. We had planned to walk to Ueno Park but rain had settled in and soothed us with its gentle sounds on the roof.

Jordo noticed that every narrow strip of land has been generously planted, and pots of plants soften the cement outside small homes and businesses alike. It goes along way to softening this big city. Microgardening is what Jordo calls it.

We had dinner in a cheap but cheerful Nepali restaurant not far from our digs.

Day 3

We had another delicious Japanese breakfast at the ryokan before heading back underground, emerging  near.. to meet up with our cycling tour. There were 6 of us (a Parisian couple with their 15 year-old son and a tall you man from Montreal) plus two guides. We rode for 25 km, stopping regularly to hear about various aspects of Japanese culture. It was really enjoyable to be cycling around Tokyo, using footpaths (quite legal in Japan) cycle lanes, roads and narrow alleys. It’s a lovely pace for covering ground.

We learnt about the lives of Sumo Wrestlers, stopped for a view of the Imperial Palace, the Skytree, the lotus pond in Ueno Park.

Day 4

We rose early and headed off to the outer market of the Tsijiki Fish Markets. The actual fish markets have moved further away and we didn’t see the catch being wrangled and sold but we did wander the stalls taking in the range of dried and fresh produce -from squid jerky to large king crab legs. There was stall specialising in large fruit – grapes the side of sugar plums, oversized apples and pears that cost $9 each.

We ate sashimi and salmon roe in a rice bowl at one of the many small eateries at the markets. We bought a beautiful clay soy sauce pot and then headed off to find the Yayoi Kusama Museum in a suburban stretch of Shinjuku.

Kusama is 95 and lives in a mental health facility but leaves each day for studio. Her work is colourful and vibrant and she has clearly inspired other artists during her long career. She has also been inspired by others. I’ve no idea what her knowledge of indigenous Australian art has been, but her work looks strongly influenced by it. Leaving with a photo of yellow pumpkin (nothing else was allowed to be photographed) we headed back to our neighbourhood, for a picnic in Ueno Park. We finished our konbini (convenience store) snacks and once again I found myself drawn to photographing the fading water lillies in the pond.

We walked homewards through the narrow streets of Yanaka with a mix of shops, homes, bars and eateries all built up to the street. We have become very fond of this neighbourhood and look forward to returning at the end of the month.

Before reaching our ryokan we popped into a little eatery to enjoy another piece of their delicious cheesecake.

After a nap (all the walking takes its toll) we did a little paperwork over a beer from the vending machines (alcohol seems cheap here – perhaps there are not many taxes that apply? Then we headed out to a small ramen house (yum) then on to wine bar (unusual in Japan) for an expensive not great glass of red.

We’ve had a happy time in Tokyo.